Venture outside the fortified walls of Old San Juan for a stress-free coastal cycle to Pinones Channel Hunter S Thompson with shots of rum at El Batey Salsa till the small hours with San Juan's suited-up office-set in La Placita de Santurce Volunteer to oversee turtles laying eggs at sunset on Playa Brava In This Guide: Two authors, two bikes and a two-year-old get under Puerto Rico's skin to find all that lies beneath From cycling to kayaking to publicos, we've got the island covered...without a car Dedicated chapter and reviews get into the roots of the country's music